Although it is a bustling modern capital city, Athens still holds the ancient Acropolis and all of its history. Atop the Acropolis, the serene Parthenon sits above the commotion of the modern city. The tragedies of Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides were performed in the Theatre of Dionysus at the floor of the Acropolis. On Pnyx Hill, citizens of a fledgling democracy gathered to cast their votes on Athern’s destiny. Then there is the hustle and bustle of the modern city, a metropolis of 4.5 million that spreads out from the foot of Mt.Lycabettus and across the plain. Packed with busy shops and lively tavernas, modern Athens is a colourful counterpoint to classical Greece. The Plaka, a 19th-century shopping district at the foot of the Acropolis is home to one of the world’s great flea markets, with its cobbled lanes lined with shops, boutiques, jewelry stores, tavernas and cafes. Here too lies the Old Olympic Stadium, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Temple of Poseidon and the Ancient Corinth, which was once Greece’s wealthiest city in antiquity.
The core of the city is built on a lofty hill with steep sides, providing an excellent defensive site. It is protected by a ring of lower hills, and by two rivers that flow into the sea. Despite its many protections, Athens was far from isolated. Very early in history, Athens gained attention among neighbouring city-states for its strong maritime commerce and the wealth which was generated from its overseas trade. This commercial success, in turn, convinced the Athenians that an open-minded, tolerant approach toward all people was good for business, and frequently eliminated the petty causes of antagonism and warfare that might disrupt trade.
The basis for small scale-democracy was founded upon practical needs. Since there was never seemed to be enough skilled workers to keep up with the demand for goods, the merchant classes saw that it was in their interests to form a working partnership with artisans, farmers, sailors and day labourers. Those workers were granted political and civil rights, ensuring their loyalty to a city that protected them.
Slavery was uncommon during the first centuries of Athenian life, escaped slaves frequently found their way to Athens. There was work available, and the steady influx of outsiders hoping to begin a new life was taken for granted. Like many other Greek states, Athens exported its surplus population to colonize other parts of the region, spreading its own institutions and customs even further. Athenians settlements extend throughout the Aegean, Sicily, Southern Italy, Asia Minor and even the Black Sea.
Through the Greek eyes, the unique traits of Athens disclosed a special relationship with both Poseidon , God of the Sea, and Athena, Goddess of Wisdom. Athena’s characteristic owl was a frequent symbol on Athenian coins and her olive tree, signifying peace and harmony, commonly appears on decorative works.
Though technically dedicated to the goddess, Athens did not want to neglect the powerful god of the sea, which dominated their commerce. The beautiful Erectheion on the Acropolis hedges the bet quite nicely : shrines to Poseidon and Athena share the same temple building. There is also a stunning Temple of Poseidon atop the headland of Cape Sounion, over looking the Aegean Sea.
The Golden Age of Athens began with the social reforms of the philosopher Solon and the strong direction of leaders like Peisistratos in the 6th century BC Imposing public buildings and temples on the Acropolis replaced earlier ones, and the Agora or marketplace district expanded several times over.
During the Persian Wars (400 BC ) the city was captured and destroyed, but Athens and her allies ultimately expelled their Persian foes from Europe. The glorious battles of this period include the lopsided victory at Marathon, (recently made famous by the movie "300" ) followed by the famous 26-mile run to communicate the news of victory. It was following this victory over the Persians, the great statesmen Themistocles built new fortifications to protect the city. There was also much to be rebuilt inside the city, which accounts for its Acropolis shape that is seen today.
However later on when the city went into decline, it was ruled in turn by Sparta, Thebes, Marcedonia, and Rome. The Roman Emperor Hadrian added a new walled quarter to the city, complete with library, gymnasium, new aqueducts, and the striking Hadrian’s Arch. He also completed the Olympian Temple of Zeus, started centuries before by Peisistratos.
Athens remained part of the Roman-Byzantine empire even after the fall of Rome in the West. Along with the rest of Greece, it was conquered by the Turkish army in 1450s and remained part of the Ottoman Empire until the 19th century.
Monuments in the modern city honour the memory of two non-Greeks : Lord Byron and Heinrich Schliemann. Byron was British and supported the Greeks’ struggle for independence with his military skill, but even more with his writing. Although he died long before final victory, he is much loved by the Athenians till today.
Schliemann on the other hand was a German businessman with a passion for ancient history. He shocked the archaeological world by discovering legendary sites, like Troy, which scholars had dismissed as mythical. His efforts sparked a new wave of study, which brought to light previously unknown cultures like the Mycenaean and Minion civilizations. His house in Athens today becomes a museum.
Indeed Athens is a very interesting and beautiful city to visit. For Ainul and I, the short visit that we do fulfills our life long wish to see the one city that brings so many legendary stories of ancient Greece with their Gods and Goddesses and Greek warriors that echoes love, war and victory all entwined with the manipulations of their Gods and Goddesses. Only thing is, we really have to walk long distances up hill tops to visit these preserved historical ruins that overlook the modern city of today’s Athens.
Back on board for the night after the usual wonderful dinner at our favourite fine dining room, we headed once more for the Princess Theatre to enjoy "Spotlight Showtime" which stars Tony Tillman the Vegas Headliner who plays the piano so brilliantly that he amazes us all with his renderings of both modern and classical interpretations of the two music generations. The nightly shows on this cruise are all unforgettable to us. They make the day for us. Tonight however, both of us decide to retire early since we feel exhausted with the offshore trip to Athens. On the way back to our stateroom, as usual we take a short break to see what’s going on at the Movies under the Stars for a while only before we head back to our stateroom which is just around the corner to it. Another lovely day well-spent.
(TO BE CONTINUED)
Strange indeed Web Editor. I recall making remarks on this article when it was published . How come it's not published ?
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